Ingredients to Pass or Purchase: What’s Actually Worth It in 2025
The skincare world has no shortage of new “it” ingredients claiming to change your skin overnight. Every few months, there’s a buzzy serum or miracle cream promising brighter, tighter, younger-looking skin. But which ingredients actually deliver—and which ones are better left on the shelf?
We’ve sorted through the latest trends and research to bring you the no-nonsense verdict on 2025’s most talked-about skincare ingredients. Backed by science (and a little in-house expertise), here’s what’s worth adding to your routine—and what you can skip.
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1. NAD+ (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide)
Verdict: PURCHASE (But Manage Expectations)
What it is: NAD+ is a naturally occurring coenzyme in your cells, essential for energy production and cellular repair. In skin care, NAD+ claims to support skin regeneration, improve elasticity, and reduce fine lines by encouraging healthy cell turnover.
What the research says: This is where things get interesting. There are plenty of studies showing that taking NAD+ supplements can increase levels of NAD+ in the body. Still, far fewer studies confirm that higher NAD+ levels directly translate to visible, measurable benefits—especially when applied topically. The science isn’t yet conclusive on whether increasing NAD+ does anything significant for your skin.
Bottom line: NAD+ logically makes sense—it’s not harmful and plays a crucial role in cellular function—but if you’re looking for a “life-changing” result, this ingredient might not be the one to hang your hat on (yet).
2. Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid & Derivatives)
Verdict: PURCHASE (Forever a Classic)
What it is: Vitamin C has stood the test of time as one of skincare’s most trusted ingredients. It’s an antioxidant that brightens skin, boosts collagen production, and protects against environmental stressors.
What the research says: Yes—and there’s a mountain of clinical research to back it up. Vitamin C (especially stabilized forms like THD Ascorbate) is clinically proven to improve brightness, even skin tone, and reduce the appearance of dark spots. It’s effective, well-studied, and safe for most skin types.
Bottom line: If you want glowing, healthy skin, vitamin C should always be part of your routine. For the best results, look to well-formulated serums and creams that combine vitamin C with hydrating ingredients.
3. Bakuchiol (The "Natural Retinol Alternative")
Verdict: PURCHASE (Especially for Sensitive Skin)
What it is: Bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient often marketed as a gentler, natural alternative to retinol.
What the research says: Multiple studies show that bakuchiol offers many of the same benefits as retinol, such as smoother texture, improved elasticity, and fewer fine lines without irritation or sensitivity. It's ideal for anyone whose skin reacts harshly to stronger actives.
Bottom line: If you’ve struggled with retinol in the past, bakuchiol is a smart, effective alternative to try.
4. Collagen
Verdict: PASS (But Consider Supplements)
What it is: Collagen is the protein responsible for keeping skin firm and youthful. Many skincare products claim to deliver collagen topically to plump and smooth skin.
What the research says: Topically applied collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the skin’s surface—meaning their impact is largely superficial (think: moisturization, not real anti-aging). For real results, high-quality collagen supplements may have more impact.
Bottom line: Save your money for ingredients that stimulate your body’s natural collagen production—like vitamin C or peptides.
5. Hyaluronic Acid
Verdict: PURCHASE (Always and Forever)
What it is: Hyaluronic acid is a hydration hero, able to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.
What the research says: Yes—it's clinically proven to improve skin moisture, elasticity, and plumpness. Multi-molecular weight formulas are particularly effective, delivering moisture at multiple skin depths.
Bottom line: If you’ve ever felt like your skin needed an instant refresh, hyaluronic acid is a must-have.
6. EGF (Epidermal Growth Factors)
Verdict: PURCHASE (If You’re Serious About Anti-Aging)
What it is: EGFs are proteins that promote cell renewal and collagen production, making them a popular ingredient in high-end anti-aging products.
What the research says: Early clinical studies and user feedback suggest that EGF serums can improve skin texture, firmness, and elasticity. They’re pricier than most actives but have shown noticeable results with consistent use.
Bottom line: If you’re ready to invest in a serious anti-aging routine, EGF is worth adding to your lineup.
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Final Thoughts: What to Actually Put on Your Shelf
Skincare marketing can be loud, but science is clear: ingredients like Vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and bakuchiol are tried-and-true. Newcomers like NAD+ and EGF show real promise, but managing expectations—and consistency—is key. As for trendy ingredients like topical collagen, it’s better to pass and spend your money on formulas with proven efficacy.
Want to build a routine rooted in research? Start with our top-performing picks featuring ingredients that actually deliver:
✨ Lemon Body Cream No. 005, C.O. Bigelow – vitamin C-infused moisture for head-to-toe glow.
✨ Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream, Sunday Riley – hydrates and smooths with vitamin C and lactic acid.
✨ Universal C Eye Perfector, BeautyStat – targets dark circles with vitamin C.
✨ Bakuchiol Serum, Herbivore – gentle, effective retinol alternative for smoother, firmer skin.
✨ Triple Level Hyaluronic Serum, Irene Forte – multi-weight hyaluronic acid for deep hydration.
✨ Vinotherapist Hyaluronic Nourishing Body Lotion, Caudalie – hydrates and soothes with hyaluronic acid + plant oils.